Suck on our salty meatballs, A.A. Gill.

Cincinnati Bites
Deluxe Pizza from Marion's Piazza

Posted Monday, February 22, 2010
Note: the following review is for a restaurant that has since closed.

For us, Indian food is a lot like pizza: it's all degrees of good. So when we visited Daata India Restaurant, located in the Surrey Square shopping center in Norwood, we found it difficult to place it in the correct category. It's good, but in what echelon of "good" does it live?

We arrived there for dinner a bit after 8 pm on a Friday night, fairly late for most diners. For this reason, it wouldn't have been surprising to see a light amount of business. What did surprise us was that we had the place completely to ourselves.

Our hostess immediately seated us (ya think?) and served us our water as we began to peruse the menu. For the most part, if you've seen one Indian restaurant menu in town, you've seen them all, but we checked it anyway. Who knows, maybe they'd be one of the few places in town that served Jalebi, my favorite Indian dessert. Alas, no.

This will mark the fourteenth Indian restaurant we've tried in Cincinnati. We've been to Baba, Amol, Cumin, Ambar, Dusmesh, Shaan, Kanak, Taj Mahal, Hi Bombay, Brijmohan, Akash, Hyde Park India (closed) and Anand. To say the least: we are Indian food fanatics.

What makes for a good Indian food experience? Our needs are pretty straightforward: give us good service; a heaping mound of hot, flavorful Basmati rice (and refills if we ask); warm, tasty Naan; and a bit of a heat factor. It's a simple formula.

Daata looks a lot like most Indian restaurants: it's got many of the same colorful Indian paintings, the same white table cloths destined to be anointed with myriad sauces and the same Indian soundtrack you've heard around town. It's as though there were some sort of Indian restaurant starter kit that owners can pick up at a local Home Depot.

As my girlfriend and I engaged in conversation, the server turned up the volume of the music, ostensibly to give us some privacy, as there was no other competing voices to filter into the mix. The music had a techno-Indian flare to it; I found myself acting silly, gesticulating rhythmically to the beat of the music before my girlfriend, as though I were trying to dazzle her with my perfectly-timed finger moves. "I start the fire, then I make the pizza. Q-tip, Q-tip, throw it away."

We both ordered our tried-and-true Indian dishes, she the Lamb Rogan Josh and plain Naan, and I the Lamb Vindaloo and Chef Naan. The saucy Rogan Josh is simmered in a tomato base with yogurt to give it a creamy texture. The Vindaloo sauce is traditionally spicy (a level 5 or 6 on a standard, 1-6 Indian food heat scale), tomatoey and mixed with meat and potatoes.

Daata Indian food: Rogan Josh, Vindaloo, rice and Naan

When the food arrived, I immediately noted that something was missing, but I couldn't quite put my finger on it. Later that evening, I found a food photo from someone else who'd visited Daata. It was clear: they'd forgotten to top the entrees with herbs. No big deal, but it left me guessing throughout the meal.

The food met all our minimalistic criteria for good Indian. Added bonuses were that we each enjoyed the flavors of our respective meals and especially appreciated and acknowledged how tender the chunks of lamb were. Another round of rice was happily supplied and we had enough of our meals leftover to warrant a couple to-go boxes.

Towards the middle of the meal, another couple sat down and there was one carry out order. I was bewildered by the lack of business. Is there such a glut of Indian choices in town that we've exhausted all its fans? Doubtful. Baba India, for example, is always quite packed. Dusmesh is also very busy. But there are places like Shaan and Daata that tend to go unnoticed. Is it a lack of publicity? An unfortunate location? Judging from the success of our meals, it was hard to tell.

A standing, $6-off coupon for the second entree was available on their website at the time of this writing, but we had neglected to avail ourselves of it.

Daata India Restaurant serves good Indian food at competitive prices with little to no wait in the evenings. And by "good," we mean three-star good.

Daata India Restaurant on Urbanspoon
Daata India Restaurant

Price: Moderately Expensive ($11 - $16 per person)
Service: Good
Rating: 3.03.0 stars




Comments

brad
Posted: 2010-02-23 08:54:37
so out of the 14 area indian restaurants, what are your top 3 or top 5? favorite? thanks!

Cincinnati Bites
Posted: 2010-02-23 12:14:06
Our current fave is Dusmesh. I really like their take on Vindaloo and the free dessert doesn't hurt. ;)

Rounding out the top 5:
2. Shaan Indian Cuisine
3. Baba India
4. Kanak India
5. Brijmohan (really love their jalebi)

Rhonda D
Posted: 2010-02-23 22:01:13
I'm going to go out on a limb and say that international food is a fairly new thing for Norwood?? I live here and was thrilled when this place opened. I suspect it's one of the offspring of the Ambar family of restaurants. It is pretty good, not quite as much so as Baba or Ambar, but adequate.

Frances
Posted: 2010-03-02 12:58:31
I tried this for lunch today and was not impressed. I did carry-out of Dal Makhani and Raita.

The Dal Makhani had the requisite level of heat, but the other spices that I expected to find in the sauce tasted muted and bland. Also, their version of Dal Makhani was almost all sauce, not much dal. More of an onion makhani.

While I imagine there are many recipes of Raita, I have never had it like this. Daata describes it as tangy. To me, it tasted like the cucumber was fermented. Perhaps it was fermented on purpose, a sort of cucumber version of sauerkraut. This was mixed into a yogurt sauce that tasted sweet. Very different than what I expected.

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