Venezuelan Hole-in-the-Wall: Arrechissimo

In my previous review, I wrote about how a great Deer Park hole-in-the-wall had served as inspiration for a new Venezuelan restaurant in Over-the-Rhine. That hole-in-the-wall is Arrechissimo, and it's well worth experiencing.

Arrechissimo opened more than five years ago shortly after the owner's family moved to the area from their native Caracas, Venezuela. They'd sought treatment for their daughter at Cincinnati Children's Hospital. Now they spend their time offering a taste of their homeland's signature dishes, in spite of how terrible and volatile Venezuela has since become thanks to years of political corruption and economic upheaval.

Beef and reina pepiada arepas

Tostones

The food at Arrechissimo sings a song of Venezuela's happier, heartier times. The menu features rich, satisifying meals and street food classics, including empanadas ($5); ham-and-cheese-filled pastries called cachitos ($4); and arepas: round, flat, fist-sized corn cakes split in half and stuffed with a variety of ingredients ($7-9). Popular entrees include the Venezuelan Typical Plate ($12), a generous helping of seasoned shredded beef, black beans, sweet plantains and white rice, and cachapas ($9), giant corn pancakes stuffed with cheese. Side items like fried or boiled yuca and savory tostones (smashed, fried plaintain slices) add yet another layer of Latin American comfort.

Arrechissimo has no dining room and there is no available seating save a few chairs and tables along the sidewalk, just outside their take-out window. Patrons get their food made to order, so it can take a while. Ordering by phone ahead of time is highly recommended, as there can be backlogs often ranging from 30-45 minutes.

Arepa pabellon

Venezuelan typical plate

There are two arepa variants that we've come to absolutely insist upon during any visit: the reina pepiada, a vibrantly green, avocado and shredded chicken mixture stuffed into the hot corn cakes; or the pabellon, a beefy arepa packed with virtually every ingredient one would otherwise find in the "Typical Plate" entree.

The hot, salt-encrusted tostones are incredibly large, starchy and supremely satisfying, particularly when dipping pieces into a side of Arrechissimo's requisite electric-green cilantro sauce, which can be ordered on the side.

Arrechissimo is one of those diamond-in-the-rough neighborhood treasures few people on the outside realize exists, even as it merrily soldiers on, right under their noses.

Now you know.